Gamcheon

About as vibrant a place as you’ll find in Korea before the sun drops and the neon’s plugged in. Gamcheon Cultural Village sits in the hills beyond Nampo-dong in the Saha district. Cramped, boxy and playful, its cafes and artisan shops add commercial color to hundreds of homes on the hillside, the real attraction here…

Gijang

I’ve been nurturing a new habit, nursing it, even closer to forcing it. I’ve spent too many weekends in cafes and movie houses and not enough time seeing the country. On this day, I took a half-hour subway ride to Gijang, a county just north of the better known Haeundae. I’d been here before, a…

Igidae, Busan

With the big C bearing down on us, I’m learning to reappreciate the outdoors, above all those patches with social distancing built in. Several days back, a friend invited me to hike Igidae, a coastal mountain trail running from Dongseangmal Observatory to Oryukdo, north to south. We flipped it, meeting in Kyungsung and bussing it…

The Oncheoncheon, Busan

Busan is a bustling port city where certain times and places remind you just how many bodies call it home. Word on the street though often remarks on a kind of looseness in the air. The ocean helps. Escapes like the Oncheoncheon too. Not quite from beginning to end, but as far as I could…

Busan

I’ve grown lazy in the heat. The photos show some of the city’s offerings but I’ve been sticking to my Dongnae district streets. The effect of familiarity maybe, not a lack of options. Busan’s self-governing rat race is more an amble. A major port city of three and a half million, she feels more a…

The Two Towers

From the top you’ll see what’s in every brochure worthy of the name Busan: the world’s fifth largest container port, the country’s second largest fish market, and the layer cake of nature’s simplest ingredients of land, sea and sky. You’re in Busan Tower. Since 1973 it’s been here, guarding the southeastern tip of Korea’s Gyeongsangnam…

Busan Cinema Center (2012)

To the question whether it’s still open for business now that Busan’s international film festival (BIFF) has wrapped – absolutely. In front of me, I hold two brochures. The first is an upcoming schedule of film screenings and live performances both theatrical and musical, the second lays out the complex itself. How many square meters?…

Korean Sports Bars (2010)

With the cold still snapping at our heels there’s little motivation to exercise, we know. Better to sit with a pint and leave it to the professionals. The question is where to find a stooltop without the same old deja view? Here are a few suggestions to get you through the thaw. Rocky Mountain Tavern…