Osaka

It’s been five years since my trip to Osaka. Interesting to look back, to see what memories jump out. Among the heavy-hitters are walking my legs off, convinced I could find my hotel without public transport, and marveling at the puzzle-perfection of the region’s temples. Incredibly, I didn’t come close to Osaka Castle. I could…

Two Temples

Habitual critter that I am, I enjoyed these Korean Buddhist temples first and only later came to appreciate their history. Both straddle Expressway #1 running through the southeastern city of Yangsan and can be explored in a day. The larger, Tongdosa, is a member of the Three Jewels Temples club, the gems being the dharma…

Gamcheon

About as vibrant a place as you’ll find in Korea before the sun drops and the neon’s plugged in. Gamcheon Cultural Village sits in the hills beyond Nampo-dong in the Saha district. Cramped, boxy and playful, its cafes and artisan shops add commercial color to hundreds of homes on the hillside, the real attraction here…

Seoraksan, Day 1

I’ve seen two moods of Seoraksan, grey and sun-drenched. The first of my three-day visit to this northeastern national park had coolish hiking air and mist in the peaks while the second and final were blue-skied and bright. It’s hard not to be awed, from well before the front gate where your car or bus…

Seoraksan, Day 2

I caught up with two Busan friends and their mother/mother-in-law on Day Two, where the cable car climbs 670 meters up Seorak Mountain. Once you exit, it’s a simple walk to Gwongeumseong Fortress. Website after website mentions “fortress ruins,” which must cause confusion. If there are ruins of the 13th century Onggeumsan Castle, they must…

Seoraksan, Day 3

Day Three should have been more strenuous than it was. First I ambled through Sinheungsa, a Buddhist temple of the Jogye Order. The layout will be familiar to visitors of other Korean temples: the brilliantly fierce Four Heavenly Kings, the square inner courtyard and living quarters that flank it and the elevated main shrine hall….

Gijang

I’ve been nurturing a new habit, nursing it, even closer to forcing it. I’ve spent too many weekends in cafes and movie houses and not enough time seeing the country. On this day, I took a half-hour subway ride to Gijang, a county just north of the better known Haeundae. I’d been here before, a…